In May 1996, my mother and I took the trip of a lifetime to the Big Island of Hawaii. This largest and youngest island of the state is known for its volcanoes, which we were eager to see.

My first glimpse of the Big Island was disconcerting. I had imagined it would be like other tropical locales we had visited -- palm trees, ocean vistas, white sand beaches. Instead, as we drove to the hotel, we saw nothing but miles of hardened black lava. It created an eerie, almost lunar landscape, and looked like coal slag fields in West Virginia. "This is the tropical paradise I traveled thousands of miles to see?" I thought.

The Big Island is volcanic, not sandy. But most of its resorts cater to visitors' fantasies by importing sand and creating beaches.

It sounded like so much travel industry jargon until I arrived at the Hilton. This 62-acre resort was built in 1988 by Hyatt International; Hilton took it over in 1993. It has more than 1,000 rooms in three towers, each with a unique lobby. There are six restaurants, several lounges and snack bars, a huge full-service spa, a 4-acre human-made lagoon with a sandy beach, three pools, including a river-type pool, waterfalls, water slides and glorious gardens.

The company bills this as the most spectacular resort on Earth. Hyperbole, for sure, but I have never been anyplace like this, and I stay in four-star or better hotels.

We rode a half-mile through the golf course to the main upper lobby. All the resort lobbies are open air. We quickly checked in, the bellman took our bags and we boarded the tram. The resort is so large that it has two monorails that travel its length, as well as a dozen teak boats that navigate the canal next to the tram track. Our room was on the fifth floor. The view from the balcony was lovely -- we could see a bit of the ocean, the lava beach, distant mountains and the glorious foliage on the grounds.

Mom and I were tired from the long flight and jet lag threatened. Hawaiian time is six hours earlier than Eastern Daylight Time, so by the time we got to the room and into our swimsuits, it was nearly 10 p.m. EDT. However, we got new energy after arriving at this amazing resort, and it was only mid-afternoon, so we did a little exploring. We walked over a small pedestrian bridge to the river pool and got two lounge chairs. This pool flows in one area of the resort, and has small waterfalls and grottoes along the way. It begins with a medium-sized, rectangular pool about 3 feet deep and frequented by families with young children. We drifted in the pool and rested in the chairs until about 6 p.m.

After we changed, we took the museum walkway to dinner. This covered passage, open on the sides, runs parallel to the tram and waterway for the length of the resort, about a half-mile. It features a $5 million art collection, mostly Pacific Island sculptures, with a few paintings and fabric works. Along the walkway, we got a better look at the resort. The tram and boats make several stops along the way. We passed several shops, which include a dress boutique, another sundries shop, a shoe store, jewelry stores and a tennis and golf supply store. The grounds include human-made lakes stocked with fish and beautiful tropical flowers gardens, where a variety of imported birds live. We stopped to look at the Kona pool, the most elaborate at the resort. It has a winding, three-story water slide, a waterfall, a suspended bridge and was absolutely huge.

There is a grotto in which is hidden a snack bar. Even though it was dark, there were dozens of people, mostly children, frolicking in the pool.

We had our first meal in Hawaii at Kona Provision Co., a steak and seafood restaurant. We split an appetizer of marinated mussels, raw oysters, boiled shrimp and sushi. We each had a broiled fish fillet with baked potatoes, green beans and bread, dessert and soft drinks.

This meal gave me my first case of sticker shock on this trip: For so little (one appetizer and no liquor) consumed, we paid $80! With 11 more nights to go, dinner alone could cost nearly $1,000 for the trip. We decided that we would save money by pigging out every morning at the buffet breakfast (which was included in the package and already paid for), skip lunch, and just have soup and salads, or entrees with no soups or salads, for dinners.

The other restaurants at the resort are Imari, a traditional Japanese restaurant, Donatello's, a very fancy Italian restaurant, and Cascades, a casual restaurant that serves buffets, salads and sandwiches for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

I was up at 7 a.m. the next day. I was eager to explore the resort while there weren't so many people about and before it

got too hot, and I wanted to take the 8:30 a.m. aerobics class and check out the spa. I walked to the Buddha gardens, a large, hilly, grassy expanse with statues from the Chinese zodiac that looked out over the lava shore. Large blue lounge chairs with hoods and mattresses are scattered about. The setting was very peaceful, and fitting for tai chi classes held there every morning. The daily power walk also started there. Every day of my 12 days there, I found something new about the property.

At 8 a.m., I walked into the 25,000-square-foot Kohala Spa at the other end of the property. It's in the basement, but this is no dark, after-thought of an exercise room and beauty parlor. It has large wood lockers, clean, well-lighted dressing areas and wonderful, large shower stalls. Delightful Japanese music is unobtrusively piped in. Opposite the reception desk is the enclosed aerobics room, which was too small for my taste and poorly ventilated. It had wooden floors, mirrors and barres, and a closet in which Reebok Steps, mats and a few free weights were stored. An exercise room offered a full selection of free weights, some Universal machines, and treadmills, stationary bikes and stair climbers.

I got a pass for six aerobics classes for $36 and signed up for several spa treatments for $150, to be spread over my vacation.

The aerobics classes are offered from 8:30 a.m. through 5:30 p.m. and last 45 minutes. They include step, low impact and toning.

After class, my mother and I went to breakfast at Cascades. It is the only restaurant in the resort that serves breakfast and was in our building. The back of the restaurant features a little lake where exotic swans, geese and other birds live. Sparrows and other small birds fly into the restaurant and steal food.

After a five-minute wait we were seated and presented our coupons for the all-you-can-eat buffet, which included juices, milk and coffee. The buffet was medium-sized, with fresh fruits, cereals, rice, mismo and other traditional Japanese breakfast foods, and steam tables with pancakes, bacon, eggs, sausage, oatmeal, and assorted breads and pastry. But bad news: The hot food wasn't hot; in fact, it was barely warm. We complained (as did other patrons), but it never improved during our stay. We ended up trying to fill up on fruits and pastries. The restaurant also served breakfast to order at an additional charge.

We used our first full day in Hawaii to explore the resort and book our day trips. My mother had booked two bird-watching trips for herself and a trip to the volcano for us before we arrived. We got brochures and went to ponder our next move while sitting at the lagoon.

We snorkeled at the lagoon several times, among its abundant seal life, which included tropical fish, stingrays and sea turtles. I rented a float almost every day and drifted in the cool water. However, because there are motorized paddle boats available, it pays to keep one's eyes open, or to stay very near the shore. One motorized paddle boat operated by an unobservant guest nearly hit me.

To get to the submarine, we took a cab into downtown Kona to Hotel King Kamehameha. This excursion and the others, which required that we travel to the point of embarkation, showed that we made a costly mistake in not renting a car. We had

traveled to several islands in the Caribbean, and in most cases, the cost of a snorkeling excursion includes transportation to the ship. On Hawaii, the island is so big (nearly the size of Connecticut) that this is impractical. So we paid hundreds of dollars in cab fare during our visit.

We arrived at the dock and took a short boat ride to the submarine. The sub went down 100 feet, and we saw lots of fish and coral, although they didn't seem to be much different from the species we had seen in the Caribbean.

That night, Friday, the Hilton held its weekly luau and show, "Drums of the Pacific," at $50 per person. The buffet and show are held outdoors down the hill behind shops at the near end of the hotel. About 300 people attended, so it took a while to get through the cafeteria-style line and get seated. Food included the usual roast pig (I don't usually eat swine, but I tried it and it was delicious), roast beef, chicken, rice, salads, several kinds of potatoes, fruit and a few desserts. Waitresses poured soft drinks and there was a cash bar.

The show lasted an hour and featured about two dozen singers and dancers. I can't vouch for how authenticcally Hawaiian the performances were, but it was a pleasant way to spend an evening.

After the second dive, the crew served cold sandwiches, pasta salads, soft drinks, and homemade macadamia nut cookies.

We had one more snorkeling stop, then sailed back at a leisurely pace. This first of three snorkel trips set the tone for our water-based tours, and herein lies a distinct difference from such trips in the Caribbean. My mother and I have taken about two dozen snorkeling trips. In the Caribbean, we considered ourselves lucky if we got a can of soda or some lukewarm punch; we generally had to perch uncomfortably on whatever bench or edge we could find on the boat; we often were left without protection from the sun; and always prepared ourselves to face, shall we say, less than ideal toilet facilities. (On one such trip in the Caribbean, the head was so small, I could not stand up in it.) On each snorkeling trip in Hawaii, we got lots of delicious, freshly prepared food, unlimited soft drinks, comfortable, sun-protected seating, and large, clean toilet facilities.

Another concern of ours on any snorkeling trip is getting in and out of the water. My mother turned 70 in 1995, and I am a woman, to put it delicately, of a certain size. We are both fit and active, but we cannot go clambering up and down tiny, poorly secured ladders set a few feet into the water, attached to a bobbing boat, without risking injury. On the Red Sail, large, wooden steps were folded down several feet into the water. Three people could sit abreast, put on their snorkel gear, and then slip easily into the water. To get back in, one walked back up the steps. Simple and safe.

On the half-hour sail to the site, we saw flying fish and dolphins. We moored about 30 feet from shore and had the site to ourselves. Fair Wind has a huge selection of water toys and equipment for use on the trip -- floats, inner tubes, snorkels, masks and fins, life jackets and flotation belts. The most ingenious device was a metal-and-glass view box, about the size of a large bucket, which allowed a swimmer to view the aquatic beauty without putting her head in the water. As my eustachian tube dysfunction was acting up (my ears had been popping almost nonstop for 12 hours before this excursion) I took advantage of the viewer. It worked wonderfully, and I spent nearly an hour paddling around the site.

This site didn't have as many fish as others, but the coral was the best my mother and I had ever seen. The water was cool and clear and there was little destruction of the coral. It was a delight to view and swim in. Some of the coral was so close to the surface that a few snorkelers got cuts and scrapes. These were treated onboard by the efficient crew. The crew lowered a slide from the top level, and the children and teen-agers on the boat had a great time sliding into the water.

After an hour of snorkeling, we were summoned to the craft for a lunch of grilled hamburgers, chicken and veggie burgers, green salad and cake. After eating, we enjoyed another 30 minutes in the water before heading back.

If you visit the Big Island, you must take one of Fair Wind's excursions. In addition to the morning sail, Fair Wind offers an afternoon sail (without lunch) to Kealakekua Bay and an adventure raft snorkel trip. The crew is great, the boat is fabulous, the food and equipment top-notch and fun, and the site is great for snorkeling and diving. I think of all the snorkeling trips I've taken, this was the best.

The park has many hiking trails and scenic drives. There is a great deal to see, and although we didn't do this, I would recommend that to get a real sense of the park, one should stay overnight. There is a lodge, and people are allowed to camp.

Our first real stop was at a huge, deep bowl from which we could see steam escaping from the fissures. More ambitious people hike down into the bowl (we saw some people in it) but it was amazing to see it from the rim. The trees are scorched skeletons. It looks like a lunar landscape. We drove on to a lava tube, which was formed when molten lava cooled on the outside first, while the inner stream flowed. The tube is in a forest-like area, which we walked through for about an hour. We also walked through a petrified forest in search of the nene, the endangered Hawaii goose that my mother, the bird watcher, had hoped to add to her life list. Alas, we did not spot the creature.

We stopped at the rim of the Kilauea Caldera, a vast indentation in the landscape, where the Hawaiian goddess Pele is believed to have lived. For several hours, we drove and stopped and walked and took in the eerie beauty created by the volcanoes.

The highlight, the life-affirming, nearly religious confirmation of the glory of nature, came at dusk. Rob parked the van (along with hundreds of other vehicles) on the road, leading to the edge of an active fissure (when I say edge, I mean about five miles from the crater), which ran parallel to the ocean, about 100 feet from the rocky shore. He brought out a folding table and chairs and served mahi mahi, rice, tortillas, salad and fruit from heaters and coolers in the van. As we sat along the road enjoying our picnic, tourists walked by on their way to the viewing point. Several commented on what a wonderful idea the picnic was.

After night had fallen, Rob gave each of us a flashlight and walking stick and we headed on to view the volcano. The paved road ended and we had to walk on jagged, hardened volcanic rock. There are huge cracks and fissures and the hardened lava had jutting, rough edges. This quarter-mile walk is extremely treacherous. One must wear sturdy shoes and take one's time. It was pitch black -- the lava combines with the dark for a seamless void. Flashlights are a necessity and the walking sticks were a big help.

After very slow walking, we reached the area where we could see the volcano. It was breathtaking. Huge orange fireballs tumbled down the side of the mountain into the ocean, which belched steam in response. We could see parts of the mountain breaking off and falling in the ocean to become part of the island. We saw trickling lava streams, and new streams forming. Even though we were far from the volcano, it was perhaps the most awesome thing I have ever seen. One cannot come away from this sight and not be moved.

We made our way back to the van, where Rob prepared cappuccino. I stared at the sky. It was a brilliantly clear night, and the array of stars was incredible. I've lived in cities all my life, and this was the first time I had a view of the sky unobstructed by smog, buildings and the horizon. It was truly a magical night.

During my vacation, I received and enjoyed several treatments at the Kohala Spa. They included half-hour and hour massages (choices included Swedish, sports and relaxation). I was given a too-small robe (after the first visit, I learned to bring my own). There are several rooms in the spa, with nicely padded tables. The massages I got were wonderful; both masseuses listened to what I wanted and paid attention to my right shoulder, which, I dislocated several years earlier and still bothers me. I also had a seaweed body wrap, which is supposed to extract toxins from the skin. I lay on a massage table, zipped into a body bag filled with a hot, leafy spread. For 15 miutes, I steamed, was helped out of the body bag and directed to take a quick, cold shower in the spa. There are other body wraps; the most popular is the cold wrap to soothe sunburned skin.

I also had a facial, the first of my life. This was a truly decadent experience, different from the many body massages I've had. I always rationalize that massages have a legitimate therapeutic function (massage helped restore flexibility after I dislocated my shoulder, for example). But this facial seemed to serve no purpose (my skin didn't look any better) other than to make me feel good. And I loved every second.

One day we took a cab to the shops in the Hotel King Kamehameha. There are the usual jewelry stores and T-shirt shops. We also went to Hilo Hattie's, which sells Hawaii shirts, dresses and mumus for men, women and children, all ages and sizes. I got a flowered mumu for $59.

We had dinner a few times in Donatello's, the Italian restaurant. It is fancy, with large, upholstered chairs, a strolling violinist and a large wine cellar. Because we were trying to save money, we had only the main pasta dishes. Our favorite was flat spaghetti in a fresh tomato sauce. The dish was $18, and in addition to being inexpensive, would nicely serve anyone on a vegetarian or low-fat diet.

Mostly, we ate dinner in Cascades, which in addition to serving lukewarm theme buffets, makes sandwiches and salads to order. We were able to get a full meal there for less than $20 a person.

A five-minute drive (or 15-minute walk) from the Hilton were more shops, a small grocery and a few tired-looking restaurants. The Hilton had a free shuttle to and from this area. I bought boxes of macadamia nuts to bring home, and my mother and I got presents and souvenirs from the vendors. We found the shops at the Hilton were too expensive.

About 30 percent of the guests at the hotel were Japanese. Hawaii is closer to Japan Hawaii than to the U.S. mainland, and the Hilton goes out of its way to attract Japanese visitors. There is a lobby, concierge desk and tour booker staffed with Japanese-speaking employees.

© Copyright 1997-2001 by Kasey Jones. All Rights Reserved.